speaking of over the top...the most amazing meal i've had in ages:
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon | the philosophy of cuisine
the dream began when i walked past robuchon's franchise in decadent vegas one Christmastime, and my father and i looked into its crazy interior, half opulent crimson and half translucent gold, a melding of culinary temple and contemporary art, a surreal creation of glass vases with vibrantly coloured ingredients sit atop shiny ebony shelves, and wondered.
what kind of cuisine is this? i asked my father, who shook his head and led me away.
expensive food, mei. expensive food.
and expensive it was. the cheapest item on the menu was something like 28 dollars, and that was just on the appetizer panel.
***
there are several rings of gastronomical delights, each ring expanding outwards, each subsequent form of cuisine losing constraints one by one until it leaps, in an unbound and ecstatic little bundle, into a universe limited only by the rarest flavours we can extract from the world around us.
we begin, i think, is the staple foods: your french fries, burgers, lasagne, things that are made from a total of three/four ingredients but hit home, creating nostalgic memories as well as an appeased stomach.
the second ring consists of the more involved tastes that extend beyond the four basic ones of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. food starts to become three dimensional with the fragrance of thyme, the appetizing aroma of basil, a hit of the surprising and the unusual, such as a sprinking of chocolate on a shank of lamb.
the third ring consists of the cultural "delicacies" that are valued sometimes more for their rarity than their good taste. take ostrich meat, alligator tongue, lamb kidney. this is where food begins to lose its way, valued more for either the price or the novelty of it. this is the point that differentiates the naked emperor from one clothed in actual luxurious robes - when you can actually say that the food was divine, absent of Michelin approval.
***
there is the final tier (the promised land of cuisine, if you will) that i hesitate to categorize any particular food/restaurant/chef into, because at this stage things cannot be as definitively described. i have only a vague sense that food of this calibre is simply whole. Joel's fourth course, for example, was quail with truffled mashed potatoes. deconstruction of the sensations into cool or warm, lightly salted or oiled, dusted with rosemary powder or parsley detracts slowly at it, because it can be taken only as a complete entity, a unified experience. my coworker described it as tasting simply like the forest. my l'oursin was similar; the complexity of good uni but paired with a cauliflower cream, set in a gel that suspended the urchin meat on your tongue so that your mind had time to sit back and meditate on it before the morsel was devoured. that one tasted like the ocean. last but not least was something quite ordinary in terms of expense account dinners: a tuna tartar, but done to such meticulous perfection that each cube of tuna was exactly the right temperature to bring out all the taste with none of the fishy tang, coated with a miracuously homogenous mixture of olive oil and unknown spices.
this final tier is hard to describe because there are no characteritics (for characteristics are limiting). it can be as complex as the saffron foam on our elaborate dessert, or as simple as mashed potatoes done to perfection. a true virtuosic chef, i think, can wed the two in flawless creations to which only fine art and music are rivals.
***
anyway, back to my dream. in it, i grew up, donned a blazer and heels, and awoke one day to lead a group of discriminating palates to the culinary palace that is Robuchon's L'Atelier.
i was a little nervous as the youngest of the crowd, since organizing such a thing is never a guarenteed crowd-pleaser. an idiosyncratic revulsion to a particular ingredient, or wayward omnivore in a "vegetarian mood" can ruin an afternoon. at first glance, however, the place was much more impressive than i had bargained for.
service was en pointe. my brother once said in his delightfully un-PC way "you know you're in an expensive restaurants when all the waiters are blond." interestingly enough, L'atelier's wait staff was populated not by displaced wasps, but by indians who, in light british accents paired subdued elegance with meticulous attention.
and the food...well, the food i've already described.
was the restaurant a success? my coworker claimed to feel "unreal," "dreamlike" and "high" after the meal (as evidenced by him randomly picking me up on Park Avenue as i flailed about from 54th to 52nd street, aghast), which proved that they were no match for Joel.
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